SW Motech SW212 center stand installation

Other reading

I started out with the installation instructions that I found on twistedthrottle.com:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/178/162/

What you need

Tools

- A torque wrench that can handle torque settings around 50 Nm (~37 ft.lbs.)
- A drive ratchet
- 15 cm (6") or larger extension for the drive ratchet & torque wrench
- 8 mm Alan (hex) socket
- 14 mm socket
- 16 mm combination wrench
- A pair of pliers
- Loctite (blue)

These are all the tools that I used (I think):
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Note that I added a T-30 torx so that I could temporarily remove the carbon canister (US models only), and needed a 1/2" to 3/8" converter to be able to connect my hex and torx socket to my 1/2" ratchet and torque wrench.

Misc

You will need something to jack up your bike such that it unloads the rear suspension. For this, I used a multi-ladder, some rope and a car jack. This was far from an ideal solution though.

Parts list

SW Motech SW212 parts list:
- 1 center stand
- 2 springs (one inside the other)
- 1 bracket with three holes
- 1 spring hanger
- 1 pivot pin
- 1 10 mm bolt
- 1 washer small (for 10 mm bolt)
- 1 washer big (for pivot pin)
- 1 6-mm thick spacer
- 1 cotter pin
- 1 rubber bumper

See also here: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/filemanager/download/971/

Torque settings

Front engine bolt - 44 Nm (~41 ft.lbs.)
Rear engine bolt - 50 Nm (~37 ft.lbs.)
Suspension bolt - 58 Nm (~43 ft.lbs.)

Step by step instructions

Step 1: Install rubber bumper

Install the rubber bumper in the short tube welded to the side of the center stand. It should go on the side opposite of the square bar.

Step 2: Lift the bike

This is what makes the installation somewhat painful. In order to install the center stand you have to remove the side stand and remove the load from the rear suspension. According to the twistedthrottle writeup you have to do both at once, but I used a slightly different approach to avoid that. It wasn't easy, but worked, so decide for yourself if this is the way to go.

I started by putting the bike almost vertical (by placing a brick under the side stand) under a multi-ladder. Place blocks around the front wheel so that it cannot go anywhere. I attached two ropes, one to the frame to lift the bike up and another to keep it straight.
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The green rope in the picture above holds the bike up. I ran it twice (once on each side of the bike) around the main frame tube that runs just behind the engine. It's approximately 5 cm (2") in diameter and silver in color. Here are picture from the top and the front, right-side of the bike:
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Make sure to not run your rope around the metal brake lineā€¦
I used a second rope to keep the bike from moving sideways by wrapping it around the stuff bay rails and typing it to the ladder.

Step 3: Engine/side stand bolts

Make sure that the bike is safely upright without needing the side stand. All bolts that have to be taken out can be accessed from the right side of the bike. Start with the rear-most engine bolt (labeled "rear bolt" in the picture below) that holds the side stand tube in place (I removed the carbon canister to have easier access). Take the rear engine bolt out out completely, you won't need it any more. Support the side stand tube somehow so that it cannot fall down and damage the side stand switch wire. Now remove the front bolt ("front bolt" in the picture below). The side stand tube will have come off the bike completely. After putting the 6 mm spacer in between the side stand tube and the engine at the location of the front bolt, reinstall this front bolt with some loctite. Tighten slightly, but not yet to torque spec.
410537744_5_MjV4.jpeg

Step 4: Install 3-holed bracket (bolt through front two holes only)

Slide the three-holed bracket around the engine at the location of the rear engine bolt that you took out. Since we did not take out the suspension bolt yet (see Step 5 below), it will be tilted downward in the back, but more on that later. Use the (longer than stock) 10-mm bolt that came with the side stand and the small washer. Add some loctite and run it through the bracket (2x) and the engine and screw it into the rear part of the side stand tube. Tighten it such that the bracket can still be rotated around the bolt, but not yet torqued to spec. You will now be able to use the side stand again.

Step 5: Install 3-holed bracket, rear bolt

With the bike still tied down (optional?), put the side stand down on something solid (I used a brick). Now jack up the bike from the right side until the rear tire almost comes of the ground. I used a jack that came with my car, which isn't ideal. I placed it under the right stand post ("right stand post" in the picture below). I slowly jacked up the bike until the rear wheel almost came off the ground. From the right side of the bike you can now take out the front of the two bolts holding the suspension in place ("suspension bolt", see picture below) using the 14 mm socket. Hold the nut on the other end in place with the 16 mm combination wrench. Once the bolt is out you can immediately rotate the three-holed bracket in place and put the bolt back in. Use some loctite and tighten it (58 Nm). Remove the jack. Now also tighten the other two bolts from Step 4 (55 Nm rear and 50 Nm front). Untie the bike and put it on its side stand, but leave the blocks around the front wheel for Step 7.
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Step 6: Install center stand

Put some grease on the pivot pin. Hold the center stand to the right of the two stand posts with the square bar facing forward (see picture above). Slide the pivot pin through the stand and the two support posts from the right. On the left side of the bike, install the large washer over the protruding pivot pin and install the cotter pin, bending out its tips to keep it in place. Place something under the stand to keep it in the up position.

Step 7: Install the springs and spring hanger

Hold the spring hanger with the round hole facing up, the rectangular hole at the bottom and the two points/open side pointing backwards (so that it looks like a mirror image C). Install the springs such that the opening in the spring hook face towards you. Put a small loop of sturdy rope, or a belt, around the spring hanger. Now, from the right side of the bike, attach the springs to the center stand, place your feet against the rear tire and pull the spring hanger forward and up (by pulling on the rope loop) until you can hook the round hole around the spring pin (see picture below).
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Step 8: You're done!

Put the bike on the center stand and admire your work!

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